Exfoliation of the Skin

Taking care of the skin, as the largest human organ, is a key aspect of overall health. Cleansing, regular use of moisturizers and sunscreens are obvious ways to care for the skin (WebMD Editorial Contributor, 2023), and exfoliation is often promoted as a magical solution for skin rejuvenation on social media. While exfoliation can indeed offer many benefits, it’s important to approach it carefully. Inadequate or excessive use, or using products and methods that your skin doesn’t tolerate, can lead to irritation, increased skin sensitivity, and damage to its barrier (Salamon, 2024). In this text, we explain what exfoliation really is, the types of home and professional exfoliation, and how you can safely introduce it into your routine.

What is Exfoliation?

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead cells from the upper layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum, which consists of 10 to 30 layers of dead cells. These cells naturally shed and are replaced with new ones through the renewal process, which takes about 28 days in younger people, while with age, the process slows down and lasts about 45 days (WebMD Editorial Contributor, 2023). However, sometimes dead cells do not shed completely on their own, resulting in dry, rough skin prone to peeling and clogged pores. Exfoliation can help with this and improve the appearance of your skin, as well as lead to better absorption of skincare products, enhancing their effectiveness. Regular and responsible exfoliation can improve collagen production (which makes skin look brighter, more elastic, and reduces the appearance of fine lines) and prevent clogged pores (Santos-Longhurst, 2023). You can exfoliate at home using products available on the market or with a professional, who may use stronger exfoliating products to achieve greater results.

Home Exfoliation

Exfoliation is a simple way to improve the appearance of your skin at home. Experts recommend starting with gentler exfoliants to monitor your skin’s reaction, as some products may be too strong for certain skin types. Exfoliation can be applied to all parts of the body, but for the face and neck, use gentler products. If irritation or acne occurs, stop using the product, as excessive exfoliation can damage the skin (WebMD Editorial Contributor, 2023).

We distinguish between two basic methods of exfoliation:

• Manual Exfoliation: Involves the use of tools to remove dead cells from the skin's surface, such as scrubs, textured cloths/sponges, or mechanical brushes;
• Chemical Exfoliation: Uses ingredients like alpha and beta hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic, citric, salicylic acid) to dissolve dead cells (WebMD Editorial Contributor, 2023).

Choosing the right technique and product for your skin is key to preventing irritation and achieving the best results. Depending on the skin type, different techniques/products are recommended (Santos-Longhurst, 2023):

• Sensitive Skin: For sensitive skin (which is commonly irritated/stings with new products), BHA acids are recommended. These are generally less irritating than other chemical or physical exfoliants. It’s important to note that sensitive skin can be a symptom of a particular condition, and if you have conditions like eczema or rosacea, you should consult a dermatologist or another expert before trying new skincare products.
• Normal Skin: Most people can use any technique or product for exfoliation without negative effects.
• Dry Skin: For dry, rough skin prone to peeling, AHA acids, such as glycolic acid, are recommended. They can break through the surface layer of your skin, allowing moisturizers to hydrate the new skin cells more effectively.
• Oily Skin: For oily, shiny skin, stronger chemical or physical exfoliants, such as electric brushes, can be used.
• Combination Skin: If you have skin that is a mix of oily and dry (e.g., oily T-zone), it’s recommended to treat each area individually and alternate products as needed. For example, you might use a chemical exfoliant or scrub on the oily areas one day, and a mild AHA acid on the dry areas the next day.
• Acne-Prone Skin: If your skin is prone to acne or you have mild to moderate acne, you can use retinoids, salicylic acid, or glycolic acid.

For most skin types, exfoliating 1-3 times a week is sufficient. For all skin types, it is recommended to consult a certified dermatologist before starting new treatments to choose the method that is best for your skin and avoid irritation or damage.

Professional Exfoliation

When you want more significant changes in the appearance of your skin, professional treatments offer deeper and more intense exfoliation. Professional peels and treatments are usually more intense and may require some recovery time but can offer more noticeable changes compared to home treatments. These treatments can lead to greater transformations because dermatologists use stronger products and techniques. Some of the most popular procedures include (WebMD Editorial Contributor, 2023; Santos-Longhurst, 2023):

• Microdermabrasion: This procedure uses a device with fine crystals or a special tool with a rough tip, along with suction, to remove dead cells from the skin. It doesn’t require recovery time, but the skin may look like it has been sunburned. To achieve visible results, several treatments may be needed. Professional microdermabrasion is stronger and deeper than home versions.
• Chemical Peels: A dermatologist uses a chemical solution to remove multiple layers of dead skin cells, improving the appearance of fine lines, pigmentation irregularities, and scars. There are mild peels that don’t require recovery, but some stronger ones may take 1 to 3 weeks to fully heal. The key difference between home and professional peels is the concentration of acids – professional peels are stronger and may be used with other prescription products for maximum effect.
• Dermaplaning: This treatment uses a sharp scalpel to remove the surface layer of dead skin cells and fine hairs from the face and neck. Dermaplaning can help achieve smooth skin and improve texture.
• Laser Resurfacing: Uses intense pulsed light (IPL), fractional lasers, or CO2 lasers to treat skin damaged by sun exposure, aging, or scars. Lasers remove the upper layers of skin and stimulate collagen production in deeper layers, making the skin smoother. This treatment can cause redness and peeling, and multiple sessions may be needed for full effect.

Recommendations for Safely Introducing Exfoliation into Your Skincare Routine

Here are some recommendations for minimizing the risk of irritation and damage to the skin through exfoliation (Salamon, 2024; Santos-Longhurst, 2023):

• If you’ve never used exfoliation in your skincare routine before, start with simply using a towel to see how your skin reacts to gentle forms of physical exfoliation. Then try milder chemical exfoliants, like lower concentrations of hydroxy acids or salicylic acid. If you notice that your skin responds well, you can gradually move on to stronger concentrations, but only if absolutely necessary.
• Use products according to instructions and intended purposes: never use a body scrub on your face, as body scrubs are usually stronger and can damage facial skin. Also, be careful not to use multiple exfoliating products at the same time, as this may irritate your skin.
• If you struggle with persistent skin issues like melasma (brown spots on the face) or comedonal acne (small, skin-like bumps usually found on the forehead or chin), consider a chemical peel in a dermatologist's office for better results.
• If your skin is irritated after exfoliation, wash the product off using room temperature water and a mild cleanser, and avoid using makeup or other products on the irritated area until the irritation subsides. Over-the-counter antihistamines may help reduce redness and itching.
• If you notice severe allergic reaction symptoms, such as difficulty breathing, swelling of the tongue, throat, or face, tightness in the chest, or chest pain, seek emergency medical help immediately.
• After exfoliation, especially when using AHA and BHA acids, the skin can be more sensitive to the sun, so it is recommended to use sunscreen.

Conclusion

Exfoliation is a powerful tool in skincare that can improve its appearance and health, but it’s important to approach it with care. Using the right products and methods, according to your skin type, can lead to excellent results, while improper use can cause irritation and damage. Whether you choose home or professional exfoliation, it’s always best to consult with a dermatologist to choose the safest and most effective treatment for your skin. Remember, the skin is delicate, so a proper routine is key to achieving long-term and healthy results.

*This text is intended for informational purposes only. If you experience any symptoms, it is recommended that you seek advice from your doctor or a qualified healthcare professional.

References:

• Santos-Longhurst, A. (2023, April 17). What does it mean to exfoliate? Why you should and how to start. Healthline. https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/meaning-of-exfoliating#benefits
• Rahimi, M. (2023, May 6). A woman is laying down with her eyes closed [Photograph]. Unsplash. https://unsplash.com/photos/a-woman-is-laying-down-with-her-eyes-closed-MGKzomg0Dts
• WebMD Editorial Contributor. (2023, July 23). What to know about skin exfoliation. WebMD. https://www.webmd.com/beauty/what-to-know-skin-exfoliation
• Salamon, M. (2024, May 20). Have you exfoliated lately? Harvard Health Blog. https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/have-you-exfoliated-lately-202405203042